Free Breakfast with Coffee

Japan has been home for nearly two years. Though I am unable to claim familiarity with every custom, by now, there are scenarios where surprise is unexpected. For example, ordering a beverage at a coffee shop.

Last year I took my first trip to Nagoya, Japan's 4th largest city. Just before going, friends told me something pleasantly unusual about the area coffee shops; upon ordering a cup of java, breakfast was free.

Inconceivable–a free drink, with purchase of a meal, might be expected anywhere, but in Nagoya, the reverse occurs? On my first trip there, I saw signs advertising the free-breakfast-with-coffee phenomenon, but was unable to partake of it, due to time constraints.

Recently, I had occasion to go to Nagoya again. It sounds silly–and it was not at all the focus of my journey–but, I was looking forward to getting something for nothing in breakfast-form.

Finally, I had my chance. I went to Komeda's Coffee in Nagoya Station. Holy mackerel–the legends were true–and it was better than I ever imagined. The meal came free with the purchase of any beverage–a pleasant surprise to this coffee-hater. There was a wide array of choices available including teas, shakes and soups.

For my beverage, I ordered corn soup. I was delighted at the wonderful taste, especially as it initially looked lackluster. They also brought a hard-boiled egg, still in the shell, and a half piece of toast. In Japan, bread is cut quite thick. The portion may not sound generous, but it was equivalent to about 1 slice of bread in the US, making the meal perfectly sized for breakfast. It was delicious, and indeed, all for the ordinary price of a drink at a coffee shop.

WHY is there free breakfast with coffee? I wondered the same. Apparently, there was stiff competition between cafés. Komeda's Coffee, the very chain where I experienced bargain-lover's bliss, started offering free breakfast. Other shops followed suit.

I could not find out why it localized mostly in the Nagoya Metro area. (Although, there are Komeda's locations nationwide; you may be able to experience breakfast, the Nagoya way, in a prefecture near you). Free breakfast should catch on everywhere. Indeed, Japanese out-of-towners were in line with me, excited to try the famed special. For now, its geographic exclusivity remains a mystery. If you find yourself in Nagoya, wander into a coffee shop and see what surprise comes with your drink.

清水寺

There is an extremely famous, and equally stunning, temple in Kyoto called 清水寺. (Kiyomizudera–Kiyomizu is the temple's name and dera is temple in Japanese. They are put together as if you were saying Kiyomizu Temple in English).

For some reason, my little town Ogi has not one, but two such named temples. I still do not know why. When I first learned I would be living here, I researched the area as much as I could. One of the high points I found was Kiyomizu. I was so excited to see its beautiful waterfall and whatever else might be within. About three weeks after arriving, I found a sign that said "清水." Excited, I rode my bike there, walked around, spent two hours exploring and taking photos. While I found a beautiful temple right in my town, about half a mile from my grocery store, there was no waterfall. I was rather disappointed.

After discussing with co-workers, I discovered that Ogi indeed had two. I had been to the other. Imagine the absurdity of going to "the other temple named Kiyomizu..." I had to laugh. While still determined to find my intended Kiyomizu, I hadn't the foggiest on how to get there. I consulted my friend the internet. It told me that it was difficult to get there without a car (I do not have one) and that there is no bus service or train there. My friendship with the internet was at once on the rocks.

About two weeks later, I accidentally discovered it. Riding my bike around town, I saw a sign that indicated "Kiyomizu Waterfall." "Hmmm..." I thought. There was only an arrow pointing straight out, with the not so daunting "3km" next to it. "I can do 3 kilometers." I reasoned. I asked a woman standing on the street for directions beyond ↑. She told me "No, that's really all there is to it, just go straight, but, I don't think you can do it..." I do a lot of biking, though, so, such a distance seemed small; I just thanked her and rode on.

I didn't realize why she thought I wouldn't be able to ride there until I was peddling up the mountain. I hadn't quite realized it would be all the way up a mountain. I did manage to climb to the top on my single-speed bike, however, when I tell locals, they are usually flabbergasted–and sometimes my students think I rode my bike all the way to Kyoto... I had quite a sense of accomplishment. Kiyomizu is my favorite place I've found in Saga Prefecture thus far. Beyond that, while riding up the mountain may have been a bit of a challenge, riding down it... Well... That was the best ten minutes in recent memory! That's right, 3km in ten minutes! Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

Tonight was the last of Ogi's festival in Kiyomizu. For the last week, they have illuminated the temple at night. Having bus service for the occasion was a bonus! I was thrilled to return. The fall colors lit up with the backdrop of Kiyomizu Falls was spectacular. My town is tiny and quiet, but has this gem hidden deep within.